Island peak climbing is a renowned trip in the Khumbu region for those who love adventure trip. The peak is locally known as the Imja Tse, beautifully situated on the top of the Chhukung glacier, in the middle of Mt. Lhotse and Ama Dablam peak. This trip became so popular in order to acclimatize for climbing the higher and challenging peaks like Mt. Everest. The trip connects with the high pass trekking that helps climbers to ascend the Island peak.
Climbing the Island peak, the journey begins from Lukla after the Himalayan flight from Kathmandu. As a warm up practice, the trek goes continually to Namche Bazaar and furthermore to the Gokyo valley. One more day, you spend exploring the Gokyo Ri and climb through the challenging Cho La Pass, which is above 5000 meters. Adjoining the trek with the Everest base camp and Kalapatthar, it leads you to the Chhukung and the Island Peak base camp. The peak was climbed in 1953 by the British Expedition Team to acclimatize before going to climb Mt. Everest. The pre-climbing session goes on with the special guidance of our professional climbing guides. Climbing to the Island Peak summit (6189 meters), you can explore the glorious views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Makalu and the neighboring peaks. Getting the wonderful peak climbing experience, you trek down all the way to Lukla and fly back to Kathmandu.
Alpine Excursion Treks and Expedition organizes Island peak climbing with EBC Cho La Pass Trek with excellent arrangement. Physical fitness and acclimatization are required for this trip along with basic climbing skills. Please, feel free to contact us for the detailed information.
How much does it cost for (Imja Tse) Island Peak Permit?
Permit Charges depends on Season:-There are actually two major seasons for (Imja Tse)Island Peak Climbing in Nepal which are known as Spring Season(March to May) and Autumn season(September to November). Climbing Permit cost depends on seasons and country. For the foreigner, Climbing Permit cost expensive and for the Nepalese and SAARC Country it cost cheaper. Different cost which has been considered according to immigrant and Nepalese as well cost can be different based on climbing seasons. Which are as bellow.
250$ per person March to May: we have to pay 250$ per person for (Imja Tse) Island Peak Climbing Permit in Nepal from March to May according to the Nepal Mountaineering rules. This season is recognized as mean Climbing season.. Peak Climbing Permit is an expensive although most of the Tourists climb (Imja Tse) Island Peak in spring season as well and it is very popular trekking peak in nepal. And for Nepalese it cost Rs, 4000/per person for Climbing Permit.
125$ per person Sep to Nov: Next major (Imja Tse) Island Peak season is autumn. In this season, it cost cheaper Climbing Permit for foreigner. It cost per person 125$ from September to November. While comparing with spring season, autumn is cheaper than spring season . And it cost for Nepalese Rs, 2000/- per person for Climbing Permit.
70$ per person Jane to August : This season is known as off season for Island Peak Climbing during this season tourist comes to Nepal very less number , so that it cost cheaper Climbing permit. foreigner and for Nepalese it cost Rs,1000/-
Who is this climbing for, how to prepare.
Thanks to the fact that we sleep and eat at the lodges, the backpacks on the route will be relatively light. Besides there is always a possibility to hire a porter, that's why we strongly recommend all the participants. He will carry the main part of your luggage (up to 12 kg), and you will carry a small rucksack with warm jacket, water, documents and money.
The best way to prepare for the mountain climbing is running (about 10-12 km 2-3 times a week), squats, cardio exercises, which will not only increase your endurance, but also train your legs for the daily walks. The better you are physically fit, the easier you will tolerate altitude, acclimatize and enjoy the program and the scenery around you more.
when it's best to go for Iceland peak climbing??
As in other regions of Nepal, there are two seasons for climbing in the Himalayas: spring (April to the end of May) and fall (October to November). If you go in spring, you should be prepared for a lot of snow on the ascent. A big plus during this period is the blooming rhododendron forests, which provide incredible contrasting pictures against the snow-white mountains. In the afternoon in spring the sky is often covered with clouds and at about 3 or 4 o'clock in the afternoon it may start raining or snowing. But by this time we usually get to the lodges. Autumn is warmer, there are almost no clouds, the snow is already melted everywhere, and there are significantly fewer hikers on the trail.Most of the expedition is at high altitude. Daytime temperature will be around +15...+20 degrees, at night it may drop to -15. Rains are rare. Typical weather for the mountain regions is clear morning and cloudy evening.
Island peak Climbing (Climate) Weather, Temperature Information:-
March-April-May (Imja Tse) Island Peak Climbing (Climate) Weather, Temperature: In these months temperature can be 15 to 17 degree Celsius around on the day and at night up to -8 degree Celsius. These months are known as spring season and this time is considered as the best time for (Imja Tse)Island Peak Climbing. Although Weather is an unpredictable, Weather is not guaranteed. But in this season, mostly Weather is clear, sky is clear, less snowfall, day is sunny and moderate temperature there during the Spring Season.
September-October-November (ImjaTse)I sland Peak Climbing (Climate)Weather, Temperature: In these months temperature can be 12 to 15 degree Celsius around on the day and at night up to -10 degree Celsius around. These months are known as Autumn season and this time is considered as the best time for (Imja Tse)Island Peak Climbing. This also major climbing season for (Imja Tse)Island Peak. Weather can be changeable so that we do not guarantee the weather. But most of the Tourist climb this peak in this season as well in Nepal.
Winter season (Imja Tse)Island Peak Climbing (Climate)Weather, Temperature: Winter is off season for (Imja Tse)Island Peak Climbing in Nepal. At this time it can be difficult to get (Imja Tse)Island Peak Climbing Guide. In this season temperature can be 12 to -5 degree Celsius around on the day and at night up to -15 degree Celsius around.
Summer season (Imja Tse)Island Peak Climbing (Climate)Weather, Temperature: Summer is also off season for (Imja Tse)Island Peak Climbing in Nepal. In this season temperature can be 15 degree Celsius around on the day and at night up to -2 degree Celsius around.
CAN ANYONE CLIMB ISLAND PEAK?
Climbing Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, requires mountaineering skills and experience due to its technical nature and high altitude mountain. While Island Peak is considered one of the more accessible peaks in the Everest region, it is still a challenging climb and not suitable for inexperienced climbers.
To climb Island Peak, you would typically need to join a guided expedition or hire experienced climbing guides who are familiar with the route and can provide the necessary support. Most climbers attempt Island Peak as part of an acclimatization and training process before attempting higher peaks, such as Everest or Lhotse.
Prior climbing experience, including knowledge of basic mountaineering techniques, familiarity with using climbing gear like crampons and ice axes, and being in good physical condition, is essential. It is recommended to have prior high-altitude trekking experience, as the climb involves camping at high altitudes and enduring extreme weather conditions.Moreover, climbers attempting Island Peak are required to obtain permits from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and must be accompanied by a licensed climbing guide. The climbing season for Island Peak typically aligns with the popular trekking seasons in the Everest region, which are during the spring (April-May) and autumn (September-November).It is important to note that climbing any peak, including Island Peak, carries inherent risks, and it is crucial to prioritize safety and follow the guidance of experienced professionals.
IS ISLAND PEAK DIFFICULT?
Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is a popular climbing peak in the Everest region of Nepal. While it is considered a technical climb, it is generally categorized as a trekking peak and is achievable for experienced trekkers with basic mountaineering skills. Here are some factors to consider regarding the difficulty of Island Peak:
Altitude: Island Peak stands at an elevation of 6,189 meters (20,305 feet). The high altitude can pose challenges, including acclimatization issues and the risk of altitude sickness. It is essential to have prior experience at high altitudes and allow enough time for acclimatization during the trek.
Technical Skills: Island Peak requires some basic mountaineering skills, such as using crampons, ice axe, rope, and fixed lines. Prior experience with glacier travel, crevasse rescue techniques, and knowledge of roped climbing is beneficial. It is advisable to have proper training and practice in these skills before attempting the climb.
Physical Fitness: Climbing Island Peak requires a good level of physical fitness and stamina. The climb involves long days of trekking and a summit day that can be physically demanding. Regular cardiovascular and strength training exercises, as well as endurance training, can help prepare for the climb.
Weather Conditions: Weather conditions in the Everest region can be unpredictable and challenging. It is important to be prepared for cold temperatures, strong winds, and potential weather changes during the climb.
Guided Expedition: It is highly recommended to join a guided expedition or hire an experienced local guide for climbing Island Peak. They can provide necessary equipment, support, guidance, and ensure safety during the ascent.
Overall, Island Peak is considered a challenging climb but achievable for those with adequate physical fitness, mountaineering skills, and experience at high altitudes. Proper training, preparation, and being aware of the risks involved are crucial before attempting the climb. It is advisable to consult with experienced climbers or mountaineering experts to assess your abilities and make an informed decision.
BEGINNER CAN CLIMB ISLAND PEAK?
Climbing Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is a challenging endeavor and typically requires some previous mountaineering experience. It is not recommended for beginners without any prior climbing experience. Island Peak is located in the Khumbu region of Nepal and stands at an altitude of 6,189 meters (20,305 feet). It involves technical climbing skills, including the use of ice axes, crampons, and ropes.
If you are a beginner with no mountaineering experience, it is advisable to start with less challenging treks and climbs in Nepal to gain some basic skills and acclimatization to high altitudes. There are plenty of other trekking options available in the Everest region, such as the Everest Base Camp Trek, that provide stunning views of the Himalayas without the need for technical climbing skills.
If you have a strong desire to climb Island Peak or engage in mountaineering activities, it would be beneficial to undertake a mountaineering course or hire an experienced guide or climbing agency who can provide proper training and guidance throughout the climb. They can help you learn the necessary skills and ensure your safety during the ascent.
HOW DO YOU PREPARE FOR ISLAND PEAK?
Preparing for an expedition to Island Peak requires physical fitness, proper equipment, and acclimatization to high altitude. Here are some steps to help you prepare for climbing Island Peak:
Engage in regular cardiovascular exercises like running, cycling, or hiking to build endurance. Incorporate strength training exercises to improve overall body strength, especially the muscles used for climbing. Include core exercises to enhance stability and balance. Consider hiring a personal trainer or working with a fitness professional to develop a customized training plan based on your fitness level and goals.
Prior experience in high-altitude trekking is highly recommended. This will help you understand the challenges of hiking at altitude and prepare you mentally and physically. Participate in multi-day treks in the Himalayas or other mountainous regions to acclimatize and build endurance.
Plan for a gradual ascent to higher altitudes to allow your body to adjust to lower oxygen levels. This helps minimize the risk of altitude sickness.
Include rest days during your trek to acclimatize. These rest days can be utilized for short hikes at higher altitudes to aid in acclimatization.
Familiarize yourself with the symptoms of altitude sickness and know how to respond in case of any issues.
Technical Skills and Training:
Island Peak requires some technical climbing skills, including the use of crampons, ice axe, and ropes. Consider taking a mountaineering course or hiring a guide to learn these skills if you are not already familiar with them.
Practice basic mountaineering techniques such as using crampons, self-arrest, and rope handling before attempting Island Peak.
Get comfortable with using climbing equipment, including harnesses, carabineers, and ascenders, under the guidance of experienced climbers or trainers.
Gear and Equipment:
Invest in high-quality mountaineering gear and clothing suitable for cold and harsh conditions.
Ensure you have appropriate gear, including a down jacket, insulated pants, waterproof and breathable outer layers, mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness, and a backpack.
Test and familiarize yourself with all the equipment before your expedition.
Island Peak is a challenging climb, and mental strength is essential. Prepare yourself mentally for the physical demands, changing weather conditions, and potential difficulties during the climb.Develop a positive mindset, focus on your training progress, and visualize yourself successfully summiting Island Peak.
Hiring a Guide or Joining a Group:
Consider hiring an experienced guide or joining a guided expedition to Island Peak. They provide expertise, logistical support, and ensure safety throughout the climb.
Joining a group also offers the opportunity to meet fellow climbers, share experiences, and create a supportive environment.
Remember that climbing Island Peak involves inherent risks, and safety should always be a top priority. Adequate preparation, training, and knowledge will greatly enhance your chances of a successful and enjoyable expedition.
Remember, mountaineering is a physically demanding and potentially dangerous activity, so it’s important to have the right skills, knowledge, and support to undertake such expeditions.
Accommodation and meals on the route??
In Kathmandu, we will book room at 3-4* hotel Standard accommodation in 2-bed rooms.
During the trek we live in lodges, which are tourist shelters with a public shower and toilet (sometimes in the room). Food we order in the same lodge where we live. Rooms are very simple, small, for 2-3 people, not heated. Of furniture there are often only beds. Beds are made with linens, but it is recommended to take your sleeping bag and sleep in it. Upon request, you can ask the hosts for a blanket. Electricity is available in almost all lodges, but there are rarely outlets in the rooms.
Individual accommodation is possible for the entire program, it costs +$250. Be sure to notify the manager in advance.
During the ascent we live in tents (we provide).
The menu at all lodges is extremely varied (different types of eggs, pasta, soups, potatoes, pizza, rice). An interesting feature is that the same dishes in different lodges can be cooked differently and taste completely different! Food prices increase proportionately with altitude. On average, it will take $25-$30 per day to eat normally.
For an example, see some of the most expensive prices on the route in Gokyo Village, and here's a folder with photos of menus and food from other lodges on the Everest trek. On the way to Island Peak, the price order is about the same.
Let's face it, some people like Nepalese food a lot, but there are also those who "don't get it". You can take some bacon and sausage stick with you.
And you can eat freeze-dried food during the ascent.
Cellular, Wi-Fi, showers, electricity
- Mobile communications, 3G - will be in Namche Bazar, Thiangboche, -Pangboche, Gorak Shep. In Lobuche, Dingboche, Chukung there is no mobile connection. But the signal breaks through at the top of Island Peak.
- Wi-Fi, Everest link - there are in all the lodges on the route, works well.
- Electricity - above Pangboche - all electricity is from solar panels. But the ability to charge is everywhere, just more expensive.
- Shower - above Namche Bazaar we do not recommend taking a shower, because there is a risk of catching a cold.
What kind of insurance to take?
To participate in the program, you need to take good insurance that is valid at altitudes up to 6,500 m, covers mountain hiking, and includes helicopter evacuation. Please do not neglect this point. It has saved some participants thousands of dollars
Contents of a first aid kit
-you must have a personal first aid kit. You need to know how to use the -medicines in it and know how to give first aid.
-Sterile wide bandage - 1 small roll
-Hydrogen peroxide 3% - 50 ml
-Small set of cotton swabs
-Zelenka - securely packed away from other medicines in a separate plastic bag
-Enterosgel - a good absorbent
-Bandage - roll and germicidal
-Elastic bandage - 1-2 rolls
-Theraflu - 5-10 sachets
-Ketanov - strong painkiller, 5 pills
-Stomach medicine - for infection - 5 pills
-Antiangin (sucking tablets) - 5-10 tablets
-Imodium (for diarrhea) - 5 pills
-Bioparox (a good local antibiotic) - 1 pack
-Carcade tea - 1 compact pack. To be drunk to normalize blood pressure, cold.
-Aspirin effervescent and vitamin C - 5 tablets
-Hypoxen - remedy for mountain sickness, 1 pack. Facilitates acclimatization.
-Diacarb is another remedy for altitude sickness, one pack. Relieves intracranial pressure.
-Vitamin complex for daily use.
Required equipment for Iceland peak.
Climbing Island Peak is a challenging program at high altitudes. It's important to choose your gear responsibly, because it determines whether you'll return from the expedition in one piece .When packing a backpack, put all things in airtight bags (or plastic bags), this will protect them from getting wet in case of heavy rainfall.Approach the packaging of the sleeping bag and all warm clothes (especially downy ones) with maximum love. Dry, they will warm and delight you even in not the best weather. Team leader has the right not to allow you to participate in the program if your equipment does not match the recommended on the site. For example, if instead of mountain boots you took sneakers or rubber boots.Please be as responsible as possible when collecting equipment. Not only your health depends on this, but also the comfortable passage of the route by the group as a whole!
Climbing requires good and high-quality equipment. Clothing for climbing in the mountains should not be too heavy, but it must be warm. In this article we have tried to consider the most important nuances of the choice of clothing, because it is thanks to the right equipment you can make the ascent.
There is such an expression – “to fall ill with hiking, mountains”… Usually it means that people having started to go hiking, get so much positive from it that do not want to stop. Many of these inveterate tourists wish to develop not only the geography of their travels, but also their complexity – they are enticed by more and more difficult peaks, routes “not for everyone”, the use of special equipment, adrenaline and sensations, inaccessible in other cases.
Many people know that mountaineering involves ascents of varying degrees of difficulty, and that even the simplest climb for a beginner requires much more serious preparation than most hikes. In this article we will try to understand the basic principles of choosing clothing for climbing and traveling in the mountains. Here are the basic questions that we will deal with:
-What kind of climbs are there, and what clothing requirements do they place on climbers?
-How and where to choose your purchases?
-What are the basic principles that must be followed to protect against the weather in the mountains?
-Let’s break down each layer of clothing.
-Let’s make some basic conclusions.
For people not yet very experienced in mountaineering, the peaks can be divided into several categories – trekking, technical, high. Depending on the relief of the slopes, we can distinguish grassy or unpaved, rocky, snow-ice and combined.
Trekking peaks are the easiest and are not directly related to mountaineering. You do not need special equipment or special skills to climb them. Clothing, footwear and equipment for such mountains are the same as for normal trekking.
Technical peaks are usually not very high, but have steep slopes, difficult terrain – rocks, steep snow, ice. To ascend and descend you often use mountain equipment. On climbs usually wear specialized clothing. The main requirements to technical mountaineering clothes are minimum weight and volume packing, ability to perform complex movements, and reliable protection against wind and precipitation. Usually for such routes (in warm seasons) special equipment of pro, light and ultralight categories is used.
Climbing on high peaks led to the emergence of a separate field – high-altitude mountaineering. As a rule, these are mountains of 5000 meters and higher, and climbing them is associated with the risk of mountain sickness due to low pressure and lack of oxygen in the inhaled air. Even during the warm months of the year the climbers are exposed to low temperatures and other vicissitudes of weather for a long time due to the need of gradual acclimatization to an unfamiliar environment of high altitude for the body and psyche. The main requirements to clothes for high-altitude ascents are maximum level of protection from adverse weather conditions. Clothing must be uncompromisingly warm, lightweight and comfortable. The moisture protection at high altitude is of secondary importance, because the precipitation here, even in summer, falls mainly in the form of snow. The selection of clothes necessary for climbing in high mountains requires understanding of the fact that clothes for climbing Elbrus and clothes for climbing Everest are not the same.
How and where to buy clothes for climbing? First things first. You need a list! It hardly makes sense to buy clothes for the mountains “in general”. It is more convenient to do it for the specific project. For the next one you will need to buy only some missing items, and maybe nothing. So it will be especially difficult only in the beginning – the clothes for ascents are usually high-tech and very expensive. And the more difficult and higher the mountains, the more expensive everything is. So get your list ready. It’s easiest if you go to the mountains with some person of Alpine Excursion Treks . In the program description, as a rule, is the list of clothing (and equipment) you need, and there is an opportunity to ask clarifying questions to the manager of the program online. With that list, it’s best to go to a good outfitter’s website and see what they have. If the items you need are available, have patience and go measure. You have to measure carefully, very carefully. This is why I do not recommend beginners to buy clothes and shoes for hiking and climbing on the Internet. An additional advantage of buying in a specialized center is the presence there of competent and experienced consultants. As a rule, the entire staff of the store is engaged in extreme sports, and advice in most cases is really helpful. If you think that the prices in such stores a little overpriced, then remember that the Couloir customers in many of them are entitled to a discount! Nevertheless, you should not rely in everything on websites and the experience of consultants. After all, man – a subjective nature and it is difficult to expect that an unfamiliar salesperson, even an expert in his business, will be able to pick the perfect set of clothes just for you, because we all differently tolerate heat and cold, humidity and wind, have their own habits and preferences. So now we’ll look at the basic rules that will make it easier for you to communicate with consultants and choose the right things just for yourself.
The layered principle of clothing selection,
There are several basic principles for choosing clothing for climbing and challenging hikes. The principle of basic layers implies a certain specialization of clothing. Each layer of clothing has its own function and is used for certain conditions. It is very important to feel what clothes to wear for the given weather conditions. Without considerable experience, this is difficult to achieve. Therefore, it is extremely useful when the group has an experienced guide or participant, who can suggest the best, in his opinion, the composition of clothing for you. Over time, personal experience will allow you to intelligently and independently select the clothing.
The principle of clothing combination calls for choosing your kit so that if necessary you can wear almost all your clothes in the maximum number of combinations – up to the situation when very cold weather will force you to wear all your clothes at once. In order to ensure that the many layers worn on top of each other do not restrict movement, clothes should be a special anatomic cut and be chosen in appropriate sizes, namely:
Base layer – strictly in size or a size smaller (on serious climbs, climbers lose from a few pounds to more than 10 pounds of weight, so that what originally “fit” over time will no longer fit you).
The insulating layer – is free to size, if there are several things, then half of them are a size bigger. For example, if you take a thin and a thick fleece, then the thin one is taken in size, the thick one is a little bigger, so you can put it on top of the thin one.
The top insulating layer – is exactly one size larger. This applies first and foremost to the warm jacket. It should fit loosely over all the clothes of the previous layers. Remember – it can get VERY cold in the mountains, and it can last VERY long!
Protective layer. Naturally, it should fit normally over all your clothes, so it’s definitely +1 size over yours. But still keep in mind a sense of proportion and the fact that you will often need to wear it just over your thermal underwear as well, so don’t go overboard with too much size. When choosing, measure each layer of clothing in “near combat conditions,” use store clothes to simulate this.
In most cases, it is thermal underwear. Thermal underwear is a functional, wearable layer, whose main task is to keep the surface of the body as dry as possible. This is achieved through the implementation of two main mechanisms..
Moisture absorption from the surface of the body and transporting it outward. A special fabric structure in the areas adjacent to the body provides thermal underwear increased ability to absorb. There are versions of sports underwear with active absorption (withdrawal) of moisture. In this case, as a rule, capillary effect is used. It is taken from the living nature – it is due to the capillary effect that plants transport water from the roots to the crown. With such solutions you have to be careful – they work well under intense physical exertion, but they are not suitable for permanent wear. The specificity of mountaineering is the alternation of intense exertion and a state of rest. A mountaineer either climbs a vertical wall in seven sweats, or is waiting for his turn to climb a rope-rail for a long time. That’s why it’s better to choose universal solutions for mountain climbing. Well-proven thermal underwear that has in its composition merino wool. Somewhat inferior in functionality, it retains freshness longer, which is very important in conditions where body hygiene is difficult. Also such underwear has a great permanent warming effect, it is comfortable to sleep in, i.e., you can have it as a second set on long projects. It is very important to choose the right size of the first layer – only a well-fitting layer will satisfactorily handle the removal of sweat to the outside. It is worth bearing in mind that overly tight underwear will be uncomfortable to wear and, much worse, it may impede the blood supply to the superficial parts of the body and contribute to hypothermia (hypothermia).
Myths about the first layer. Beginners often have the idea of thermal underwear as some kind of magic clothing, which in the most miraculous way will keep the climber warm on its own. The brutal truth)) is that thermal underwear itself retains very little of your body heat. It is a “team player” that is most effective in interaction with outer layers of clothing or with a sleeping bag.
Thermal insulation layer
This layer is used to protect against the cold and is a garment with a lot of air cavities, light and plastic. Thermal insulation can be artificial materials (for example, different types of polartec, primaloft, softshell, etc.) and natural materials – down of different origin and quality. For good mountain clothing is preferable to high-quality goose down with a coefficient of FP over 650, better 800 +. The higher this index, the better quality goose down, the greater the volume takes a unit of weight of down.
What kind of insulation is best for a climber’s clothing? It is better to have the first thing of the insulation layer made of synthetic insulation. Usually it is polartek or softshell. Such clothing perfectly helps the thermal underwear – to divert moisture from the body outside. Near the body air is still quite humid and the use of down is not desirable for physical activity. As a basic insulation it is difficult to replace down as a basic insulation in conditions of low temperatures in mountainous dry air, at high altitudes, where the probability of precipitation in the form of rain is minimal. In humid climates, it is better to use synthetic down substitutes as the top insulation layers, for example, primaloft. They are not as warm as good down, but absolutely not afraid of moisture and quickly dry right on you.Often in the mountains, especially at altitude and in relatively good weather, the top insulation layer can combine the function of a protective layer. But in middle mountains and low mountains it is difficult to do without a specialized protective layer.
It is the top, final layer in the “sandwich” of clothing for climbing and mountaineering. Its main function is to release evaporation together with moisture and not to let wind and water into the middle. The best way to cope with this are special membranes. There are a great many of them, but the most famous are GORE-TEX and EVENT. They have excellent breathability and well protect the wearer from adverse weather factors. The membrane itself is a thin film, so it is applied to the fabric with the necessary characteristics. The most suitable for mountaineering are laminated membranes, the so-called three-layer. That is, the membrane layer is between two layers of fabric. Thus, the membrane is reliably protected, and the construction is as strong, lightweight, compact and monolithic as possible. 2 and 2.5 ply membranes are only reliably protected on the outside and are considered much less suitable for rigid use.Sometimes the upper insulating layer is combined with a protective layer – and a warm jacket (pants) is covered on top of a dense fabric with a membrane. Such a solution violates the LEGO principle in clothing. The combination of layers becomes impossible, so it is difficult to recommend this solution as a universal solution for many climbs in the mountains. Rather, it is an option for alpine skiing and uncomplicated trekking mountains.
Clothing and climbing gear,
Mountaineering boots have a high rigidity sole, a climbing-friendly shoe, long laces for a secure foot hold, an anatomical tongue that prevents the squeezing of the foot during intensive movements, special tread for reliable climbing and often – improved thermal insulation. For mountaineering boots designed for very low temperatures, a sandwich construction is often used with the ability to remove the inner boot for drying out or use in a bivouac. The design of a mountaineering boot should allow for excellent compatibility with various types of crampons, including professional climbing models with a firm grip. For this purpose, the sole is equipped with rants (front and back for automatic cats) or only the back (for semi-automatic cats). Choose a model with a reserve of at least +1 size to the urban and comfortable for you personally shoe. There are a lot of manufacturers and there is a lot to choose from.
Hand protection often follows the same pattern of layers as the rest of the clothing. Thin, comfortable gloves for relatively warm weather primarily serve the function of mechanical hand protection when navigating difficult terrain, setting up belaying points, and working with rope. In moderate cold it is convenient to use warm gloves with reinforcements. If considerable frost is expected, warm mittens with down or synthetic insulation of considerable volume are used. They are usually chosen in a large size to be worn over the gloves if necessary. Hand protection should be as impenetrable and waterproof as possible. This applies primarily to gloves. Warm mittens are usually used in very cold conditions and protection against getting wet is not as important for them as protection against wind.
Protecting your feet in boots involves a careful selection of socks. This is what you should not skimp on! Choose your socks carefully and exactly the right size for the conditions you expect in the mountains. On the ascent you will need socks with good moisture wicking and maximum protection against bacteria, and on the ascent they should be as warm as possible. It is also a good idea to stock up on special warm socks for sleeping.
Face and head protection. Carefully choose a comfortable balaclava and a few buffs. It is very easy to get frostbite on your face in the mountains, especially in the strong wind. The balaclava should fit you well, protect your nose, cheeks and lips from the wind and frost, and be compatible with your goggles and ski mask. A buff is an extra protection, a backup just in case and a protection when a full-fledged balaclava would be excessive. Also, in many mountains, the buff would help protect your face from dust on the approaches. This is especially true in Nepal and South America.
You have already seen that the mountaineer’s outfit is a whole system, a real constructor, mastering which you can protect yourself from the vicissitudes of weather even in the harshest conditions of expedition. Choose your clothing for ascents as thoughtfully and seriously as possible, as a lot may depend on it in the mountains. The approach to the choice of clothing should be comprehensive. Buying every single thing, think about how it will go with all the others. The main criterion of choice must be FUNCTIONALITY and FITNESS, and only then beauty, color, and even the cost.
It’s great if you are assisted in the selection of climbing gear and clothing for your first ascents by a knowledgeable, experienced climber, whose experience and opinion you trust. So you will save time and energy and, may be, money and you will not make the mistakes of beginners by chasing after beauty or fashion. If you have no one to turn to for help, that’s okay – read the available information and make the most of the support of the website and store consultants. Remember that man has not invented anything perfect and everything is always a compromise. Do not spend too much time in specialized forums – there you risk getting the opposite advice and get confused. Dose the information. Use common sense and the advice of those around you. But whoever helps you choose clothes, remember that you have to wear them! Have a good choice and see you on your way! Anyway, what you are wearing is secondary compared to the beauty and grandeur of the mountains. Best wishes for you to get there as soon as possible!
Day 01Arrival day in Kathmandu Namaste and welcome to Nepal. Alpine Excursion Treks and expedition's representative welcome you warmly at the Tribhuwan International Airport and transfer to the hotel. You take rest and enjoy your meal in the evening. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 02Sightseeing (shopping) day. After the breakfast, you set out for the sightseeing trip in the Kathmandu valley. Our expert tour guide shows you the UNESCO world heritage sites, which include Pashupatinath (the Hindu temple), Boudhanath (Buddhist stupa), Swayambhunath (Buddhist stupa and temple). Then, return back to the hotel. If you have to shopping, you have time to do. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 03Flight to Lukla (2840 meters) and 3 hours trek to Phakding (2610 meters). 35 min fly/3 hrs walk We fly to Lukla early in the morning with the breathtaking views of the Everest Himalayan chain. In Lukla, we meet our further crew (if you required) and arranging the things, we proceed to Phakding, walking above the Dudh Koshi River and enjoying the valley views, potato fields and the forest. Overnight at lodge.
Day 04Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440 meters). 5-6 hrsToday, we walk almost up and up to the Sherpa hub, known as Namche Bazaar. First we cross few suspension bridges and enter to the Sagarmatha National Park. The gradual uphill walk is exciting with the greenery views of the forest and we get the first glimpse of Mt. Everest. Reach to Namche Bazaar and take a rest. Overnight at lodge.
Day 05Rest day and visit Khumjung valley and come down to Namche.As we are climbing to the alpine region, we need acclimatization to fit in the thin air region. After breakfast, we walk around Khumjung and Khunde. On your interest, we can walk up to the Everest View Hotel. Then we come back to Namche Bazaar. Overnight at lodge.
Day 06Trek to Dole (4110 meters). 6-7 hrs From Namche Bazaar, we gradually ascend to Dole via mong, Phortse Thanga Tangwa Kharka. It is almost all the way uphill trail and the views become more fabulous. The alpine meadow begins and we pass the dense woods on the way. On the way, we pass the birthplace of Lama Sange Dorje. Overnight at lodge.
Day 07Trek to Machhermo (4470 meters). 5-6 hrsWe have uphill trail even today. The walking becomes gradual as we are getting into the high altitude. From Dole, we reach to Kele, Labharma, Luza and finally reach to Machherma. The trail is almost dotted by the dense woods and the alpine meadows that you can feel it while breathing. Overnight at lodge.
Day 08Trek to Gokyo (4790 meters). 5-6 hrsPassing Phangga, we reach to the landslide area of 1995. Then the real wonder and an exciting excursion to the stunning Gokyo valley begins. We pass two Lakes, named Longpongo Tsho and Taujung Tsho and finally reach to the Gokyo valley, which is beautifully situated beside the Gokyo Lake, which is known as the third lake. The Janai Purnima fair is held beside the Lake every year. Overnight at lodge.
Day 09Early morning climb up to Gokyo Ri (5357m) and return to Gokyo. Early morning, we begin to hike towards the Gokyo Ri. It is an exciting viewpoint of the Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Lhotse and the vicinity peaks. The Ngozumba glacier adds more attraction on the trek, which is the longest glacier in the Khumbu region. We can enjoy climbing the Gokyo Peak and gradually retrace to the Gokyo valley and take a rest. Overnight at lodge.
Day 10Cho La Pass (5368 m) and trek to Dzongla (4830m). 8-9 hrsWe leave the Gokyo valley and head towards Dragnag after the breakfast. Then we begin our grand excursion towards the Cho La Pass. It is challenging enough to deal with. The top of Cho La 5368 meters is a wonderful viewpoint of the peaks of the Khumbu region, including Mt. Everest, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, Lobuche peak and others. Crossing the Cho La Pass becomes highly challenging in winter due to the high snow fall. However, even in the normal season, there can be snow and the route becomes slippery and special attention should be paid along with using some basic climbing equipments. Then we climb down gradually to Dzongla. Overnight at lodge.
Day 11Trek to Gorakshep (5160m). 5-6 hrsThe previous experience of passing the high pass, we find it easy to deal the gentle trekking trail though in the alpine altitude. With the physical fitness, we walk gradually From Dzongla to Labuche enjoying the views around, of the mountains and the glaciers. Thamserku, Kangtega and other peaks can be seen frequently. We reach to Labuche and take a rest. Then the uphill trail becomes challenging with the increasing altitude. We pass the Italian Research center and cross the Lobuche Pass at 5110 meters and finally reach to Gorakshep. Overnight at lodge.
Day 12Excursion to Kalapatthar (5550 meters) and trek down to Lobuche.Early in the morning, we climb up to the Kalapatthar. From the trail, we can enjoy the views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse face, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Taboche, Cholatse, Lobuche East and Pumori on the near horizon. We have enough time to enjoy taking photographs of the golden sunrise and enjoy looking around. Then, we descend to Gorakshep. After breakfast, trek down to Lobuche. Overnight at lodge.
Day 13Trek to Chhukung via Khongma La. After breakfast, we head towards the Khongma La Pass, after crossing the Khumbu glacier. The last high pass of this trek is also the highest high pass among three. The top of the Kongma La is a brilliant viewpoint of the Everest Himalayas. From 5530 meters with a challenging walk, we trek down to Chhukung with 800 meters down. Overnight at lodge.
Day 14Trek to Island Peak Base Camp. As a part of side trip on this journey, we walk up to the Island peak base camp. For those who have already crossed the high passes will find it easy to go and come back. Another beautiful part of the Khumbu can be explored today, include Imja Tsho. As we will be early, we can begin a peak climbing training session. Overnight in tent.
Day 15Summit Island Peak (6189m) and back to base camp. 8-9 hrs This is the most awaited day in the Island peak climbing trip. Early in the morning, we begin to climb the Island peak. The icy flakes and the steep trail become challenge of the trip. Gradually climbing, we reach to the top of the Island peak. The eye catching views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, Makalu, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and the surrounding peaks surprise you with the good morning welcome. Taking abundant photographs, we climb down to the base camp. Overnight at tent.
Day 16Extra day/reserve day in case of bad weather or some problems. You should manage a reserve day so that in case the weather gets bad, you can attempt another day. The weather is flexible in the mountain. Overnight in tent.
Day 17Trek to Chhukung. 5-6 hrs Bringing the excitement of the successful ascent of the Island peak, we trek back to Chhukung from base camp. It's continually through the glacial trail and the downhill route. Overnight at lodge.
Day 18Trek to Tengboche (3900m). 6-7 hrs From Chhukung, we continue to trek down through the up down trail to Dingbuche. Following the Imja Khola, we reach to Orsho, Somare and finally to Pangboche, the place, where the oldest monastery of the Khumbu region lies. The centuries old Pangboche Gompa is surrounded by various chhortens. Then we trek down to Tengbuche, where the globally recognized Tengbuche monastery lies. Overnight at lodge.
Day 19Trek to Namche (3440m). 5-6 hrs After breakfast, we begin to trek down from Tengbuche, widely renowned cultural spots of the Tibetan Buddhists. This is richly loaded by the spirituality. Via Phunki Tenga, we gradually descend to the Namche Bazaar. Overnight at lodge.
Day 20Trek to Lukla. 7-8 hrs Almost, the trail is just downhill. We begin after breakfast and finally, check out from the Sagarmatha National Park check point. Crossing various steel bridges, we reach to Phakding. Then we have a gentle walk through the easy trail. The view of the Dudh Koshi valley can be seen stunning. Arriving at Lukla, we bid farewell to the porters (if we have) and have a memorable evening. Overnight at lodge.
Day 21Fly back to Kathmandu. Today, we fly back from Lukla to Kathmandu enjoying the Everest region snow covered peaks. From airport, you will be transferred to hotel. Then you have a whole day for shower and rest. Overnight at lodge.
Day 22Rest (shopping day). After the tiresome excursion, today you have your own day. It may be valuable to do the shopping and buy souvenirs for your family members and your friends. Then you can have a relax time. Overnight at lodge.
Day 23Departure. The last day of the trip, the representative of the Alpine Excursion Treks and Expedition drops you to the airport. Thank you for joining us for your memorable trip. See you again
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